They say it is hotter than usual this Winter (summer). We agree ! There have been more days into the 90's than we remember in the past. On our first visit here 13 years ago there was no one on the beaches, because of pollution (Montevideo has miles and miles of beautiful sandy beaches along its nearly tideless shores). Today on these hot days there are thousands and thousands - basking, swimming, playing all sorts of sports- organized and disorganized. Fishermen are everywhere, and it is rare to find one without a pail of fish ! The city has discovered itself !

In the early hours it is wonderfully tranquil to stroll on the clean sand (every night a  parade of motorized city beach groomers prepare the sands for the masses). Coaches with cadres of boys behind them, run in single file up and down among the sand dunes - loosening up for games of "futbol" on the beach. The busy 4 lane Rambla separates the beach from the city. Scores and scores of "omnibuses" ply the route - many filled with excited beach goers from the inner city and countryside to be spilled out upon the sunny beach.

There are yacht clubs, not of the caliber found in Punta Del Este, here any manner of craft can qualify . There are canoes, kayaks, sailboats, pontooned party boats, parasails and catamarans moved by motor, wind, muscle and current. Many of the older craft have that European look and color. And why shouldn't they ? There are no natives here ! Virtually everyone's family originally came from Spain and Italy.  They brought their culture here to meld into what has become Uruguayan design, food, dance, art and literature. Of course there is Carnival to bring full celebration to that diverse mix. Many of the villages (barrios) within Montevideo host their own band of drummers, dancers and flag bearers to compete downtown in one of the big parades of the season.

We often hear the practicing drummers off in the distant. Sometimes we go to watch them practice with their coaches. The skillfully crafted drums with their heat shrunk animal skin heads are literally taking a beating from those thumping calloused hands. The women shake their booty for all it is worth - how they do it for so long without some sort of disk damage is beyond us. But the joy and anticipation of this mix of  the religious and secular events is an undeniable force within this culture. Some of the religious origins are from above the equator, where it was the anticipation of Spring and rebirth, and some of the secular contribution from below the equator where it Fall, the celebration of harvest.